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December 09, 2006

Morocco: And tiny stitches

Embroidered_panel_2I have a weakness for embroideries. Could you have guessed?  The mathematical precision that embroidery requires amazes me; so much concentration, so much patience is needed. And when it comes to embroidery, Moroccan embroideries are some of the most lovely.  While I have a few new Moroccan embroidered pieces, it is the antique pieces that I covet, but sadly, can not afford.

But with the help of Abedelmajid Rais El Fenni, I thought I would share my love of Moroccan embroidery with you.  Fenni has a well known antique shop in Tangier called Boutique Majid.  He has recently written about Moroccan embroidery - so fascinating.  Here is what he has to say:

While some samples of incredible Moroccan hand embroidery date back to the early 18th century, Moroccan women started this time-consuming occupation long before. Beginning centuries ago, Moroccan women decorated their hands and feet with henna for special occasions.  Later these patterns were transferred onto pottery and then into embroidery.

The Moroccan newborn baby often gets a beautiful embroidered pillowcase and sheets. The importance of embroidery in Moroccan life can also be seen in the traditional ceremony held for infant girls at the age of four months, when the baby is placed in a chair and given a needle and thimble along with some silk thread to hold, in anticipation of a life blessed with the needle's art, according to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

When young, Moroccan girls were taught the art of embroidery in special workshops. The teacher, the maalma, would keep all the work as her commission for free training. Clients would come to order new embroideries, or have their old ones restored. In the early 20th century, when the tradition was still strong, more than two thousand women were teaching embroidery in Fez alone. Well-to-do families would buy cotton fabric, oriental silks, and special looms, so their daughters could practice at home the skills and art they learned from the maalma.

A Moroccan girl's dowry -- embroidered curtains, bed covers, tablecloths, and many other pieces -- could easily take a generation to build. Before the wedding, the Moroccan bride would be accompanied to the steam bath, the hamam, wearing clothes embroidered on the sleeves, the belt, the veil, and even the under garments. There were also pieces especially embroidered for the henna ceremony. The wedding sheet, made of crepe de chine embroidered on the ends, would later be shown to everyone at the party, to prove the virginity of the bride. The girl's dowry was displayed at the wedding to demonstrate the wealth of the family. Sometimes the family rented out particularly magnificent pieces for this purpose.

Cities  such as Tetouan, Chaoen, Meknes, Rabat, Salé, Zemmour, and Fez are all known for their unique embroidery styles, techniques, colors, and fabric. Women from Tafilal, in the south of Morocco, Berber Jews, mainly made fantastic embroidered clothes. Fez embroidery is perhaps the most celebrated -- easy to identify because of its highly graphic and geometric design; the triangle represents the eye, but may also symbolize the female sex if there are other triangles in each corner. Moroccan_embroidery_book_4 The hand of Fatima is also embroidered for protection against evil eye.

The picture above is from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, showing the mastery of a Chefchaouen needlewoman's skills. The description says that it is an arid, used to cover the surrounding areas of interior arches in matching sets.

Unfortunately today, relatively few Moroccan women practice the art of hand embroidery. Many items now are machine embroidered.  It is such a pity that this beautiful tradition is slowly being lost. 

For those interested (ahem, that would be me), you can purchase the book Moroccan Textile Embroidery by Isabelle Denamur.  So sophisticated on your coffee table, no?

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Wow, I like these works of art! I don't have any patience for sewing of any kind. I have about 20 buttons in a dish, waiting for me to be good and sew them on whatever shirts they belong to...

Not that that has anything to do with embroidery.

Those are really beautiful. My mom used to embroider and crochet (with thread) everything. Every pillowcase and sheet in the house was embroided by her. Handkerchiefs, doilies, everything. I wish I had inherited her talent.

How fascinating! I must admit, I have never been a lover of embroidery, but these are works of art, so beautiful, and so delicate. I particularly like the math involved in this art.

Thanks for sharing Maryam.

BEAUTIFUL !!!!

Thanks for the tutorial, Maryam - how fascinating. It is a shame such artisanal abilities have died out. This is why I love the resurgence of "indie" arts and crafts. A machine can make most anything but nothing replaces something created by human hands.

What fascinating information and since I used to do embroidery and counted cross stitch, I really enjoyed reading this.
Such a shame that even there, it's become a lost art.

I share the same sentiments about embroidery with Anna. My mom has done plenty - embroidered sheets, pillows. I learnt some of the skills as part of "Needlework" lessons in school. I had the opportunity to learn how a story was created for embroidery work. Resembled the likes of a script writer writing the scenes of a movie. But worth mentioning are some of the folk embroidery art of India which in my opinion have faded because of its labor intensiveness.

My needlework is pretty shabby I must admit;-) but fascinating post, nonetheless.

This is awesome Maryam thank you for this info. I love to learn about different traditions & customs specially Moroccan, which I found fascinating. The thing I have found most amazing about Moroccan’s tradition is that when a baby is born the father would recite a portion of the Coram to the newborn’s ear. Now about Embroidery Oh… what a beauty I think is gorgeous, elegant & enriches the décor of the homes. It’s a shame it’s becoming less hand-made and more machinery. I think is because sometimes that kind of work, which is very time consuming, is sometimes not too well paid & that is why people get discourage. :(

Hi Maryam,

I just thought you would find the following link interesting:

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/inspiration/inspiration-iksels-paris-kitchen-in-elle-decor-015544

Not quite Moroccan, but certainly a way to add the Middle Eastern flavour to the kitchen. Perhaps you might be inspired while decorating your new home.

I always enjoy your blog. Thank you.

I love embroidery, too. I spent a summer in Guatemala and fell in love with their textile art and even lived with a family where both parents made fabric and traditional women's clothing that is covered in embroidery. I love the pieces I came home with. Thanks for sharing about Moroccan embroidery. I love the colors.

Lovely. The colors are stunning and the design is so precise. I have a piece of Mexican embroidery that also uses those bright colors but the design is folkloric. When I was in high school I had my very talented grandmother teach me how to embroider (crochet, tat, etc.). I still do it to pass the time, relax, etc. It's sad that it is becoming a lost art....it seems everywhere. Maybe you can find someone to teach you....and be a tiny bit responsible for keeping the art alive....and. most importantly, get that piece for your house that you've always wanted :-) Funny the things different cultures have in common.

P.S. I have a hand of Fatima charm on my charm bracelet....wanted a door knocker, but that is a whole other story....

Yippee! So glad we've discovered each other's blogs! Now I have the Moroccan Textile Embroidery book on my list of must-haves. Merci!

Very interesting post. Quilting is big here, but I don't think our embroidery gets as intricate or is as ingrained in the culture as in Morroco.

SML-I don't actually sew or embroider -- perhaps that is why I so admire this skill in others. Seems so impossible.

Patricia- Such patience your Mom must have had! Was that a skill she ever tried to pass on to you?

Anna- Actually the Chinese excel at embroidery, don't they?

Paris - Well thank you! So are your lovely water colors.

Pink - It is actually comforting for me to think of the new Indie arts that way. Thanks for the thought.

Terri- Have you now given up your embroidery for writing?

Anrosh-That is fascinating about the story telling behind the embroidery. I actually have a couple very beautiful Indian embroideries that I bought while living in Nepal.

Paul-Now listen: there is still time for you to take up embroidery. Your Irish friends might think it a bit odd. But it could be thought of as a charming quirk;-)

Julie-That is so sweet about whispering into a newborn's ear. In fact, whispering anything into a newborn's ear seems darling to me. I do so love babies.

Ken-So glad you swung by. Haven't seen you here on the blog for sometime. And thanks very much for that AT link. Actually Pink Mohair put me onto it on Friday and I left a comment about it. That kitchen is very special, indeed.

sjibrich - I spent some time in Guatamala, too. I was volunteering for the 500 year anniversary of resistance to Columbus. I still have some embroideries that I bought way back then. Lovely.

Stuccohouse - How nice to know how to embroider. I suspect, however, I would be completely unsuccessful in this area. PS I love hands of Fatima!

Sylvie-Thanks so much for visiting! PS Are you homeschooling? Wow.

Gale-That's right. I forgot that there is such a tradition of quilting in PA. Is that from the Amish?

Writing is now my priority, yes. But no, I transferred my love for embroidery into a compulsion for knitting...lol Simply can't stand to sit and do nothing.

As the comments above attest, you have a real talent for helping people see the beauty of beautiful things.

The graceful and complex patterns engage the eye and bring us to reflection of a higher order. Anna and I are going tomorrow to see a Chinese film called "Hua yao xin niang» (translated "flowery belt bride") which is set in China's Yunnan province. The story is about a tradition whereby a marriage is not consummated until three years after the wedding ceremony, during which time the relationship is recognized when the bride gives the groom an embroidered belt.

Wow oh wow are those beautiful!

Terri-How great to have a hobby that produces something beautiful that keeps people warm and that you can touch! If only I were so talented.

Bill-As you know all too well, there are so many beautiful things in Morocco. It's such a pleasure for me to be able to share them.

Slice of Being-That film sounds divine. And strangely evocative of another story I know...

Claire-So glad you like them. Delicious in a different way from one of your pies;-)

I want that book!

Hey, telepathy! I've just been to Paris for the weekend and bought the book on Moroccan embroidery. (at with 40% off!!) It's really beautiful!
Joan

Juju- A Christmas present then?

Joan-Paris for the weekend?! Why you very lucky, lucky girl!

Dear Sir.
we produce best quality hand made embroidered badges,
crests emblems pips , shoulder broads , banners and flags in tinsel & silk quality.
Our price and delivery are very attractive.
If you are intrested, please feel free to mail us at biggreat@skt.comsats.net.pk
Also visit our website www.biggreatemb.com
to proceed further

M.Imran Ramzan
Company Name ;Big Great Embroidery,
Office Adress; Glshan Iqbal Park Sisalkot Pakistan,
PHONE# 0092 523 541502, FAX# 0092 523 559613

Nice post. Here in Pakistan, the matter is same in rural areas. Girls are taught embriodary and basic tailoring at from in the age of 4 and above. Their work is fine and attractive. Mostly in Pakistan rural areas dower is mostly made by herself.
Moroccon culture and Pakistani Culture in this trade are very similar.

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