Bishkek: and leaps of faith
It was 3:15 am. Inside the Bishkek airport, their breath could be seen in big white puffs; outside it was 11 degrees below zero. Their tired, huddled masses were in front of the airport visa office. The line was long. They inched forward.
*
The blogging girl was known to start conversation with virtual strangers. She was interested in people, you see. What had brought them to this place? Why were they there? She turned to the man in front of her, his hair clipped short, his hands in his pockets, his blue eyes missing nothing. He told her that he was in transit at the US military base nearby. In transit where? He looked at her and replied with one word: Afghanistan. Oh, she said. I see, she said. She was quiet then but he kept talking. Since September 11th, he had seen his children -- a 5 year old and a 7 year old -- for a total of 6 months. In the strange intimacy born of conversations with strangers in the middle of the night, she asked if he was scared... of going to Afghanistan. He shrugged, looked down, and shook his head in a way that said, I don't know. And then it was his turn at the counter with the visa man.
*
She smiled brightly at the couple behind her, both blond, both corn-fed, both wearing practical shoes. On holiday? she asked. They told her that they were in Bishkek to pick up their daughter, a process that involved a Christian adoption agency and a tiny Krygyz girl just over 16 months old. The soon-to-be-mother told her that they had not met the little girl before. They had been waiting for a Russian child when this baby had become available - a gift from God. They had bought clothing for her in two sizes because they just weren't sure.... of her size. The blogging girl would have asked more but the visa man was now waiting for her. She grasped the woman's hands suddenly in her own, whispering, Good luck. Then she moved forward and pushed her passport through the little window.
Image by Kristin Elsby of Lake Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan










Such a perfect image you chose for this breathtaking post, Maryam -- diving headfirst into the unknown. Safe travels to you, my dear!
Posted by:Carroll | January 20, 2008 at 06:01 PM
All these stories shared with fellow travelers...some are heartbreaking; some hopeful, as your lovely post shows so well. Safe journey, my friend (and I always strike up conversations with those around me too).
Posted by:Paris Parfait | January 20, 2008 at 06:22 PM
I am so glad the blogging girl asks questions. So glad.
Posted by:Mimi Lenox | January 20, 2008 at 08:04 PM
This time round. The journeys of different souls. Interesting after our recent conversation. Good trip, be safe, see you soon xx
Posted by:mumafrica | January 20, 2008 at 09:11 PM
What extraordinary people. I talk to strangers everywhere too - buses, trains, visa queues in Marrakech airport... got it from my Mum - Dad thinks it's mortifying and hilarious the way I will cheerfully join in other people's conversations on buses the way she always did (I never get knocked back either - I've been lucky!).
Posted by:Passementerie | January 20, 2008 at 09:56 PM
Hi Maryam,
I sent you an email last week, did you get it? I am coming to Marrakech soon and would love to hook-up :-) Need anything from the states?
heidi
http://sewexotic.blogspot.com/ (a work in progress)
Posted by:heidi | January 20, 2008 at 10:24 PM
I have a brother in law fighting in Afganistan. He is with the Australian contingent.
He tells us its a very serious. They never go out on patrol without and engagement. He also tells us that the people are so "shell shocked" by SO much war, he does not think they will ever be normal. Very sad really.
BTW Maryam, I will have a new email address soon, and "An Ordinary Life" blog, has been restricted for a little while (I was getting some crazy comments)
It will return in a week or two.
:o)
Posted by:simon | January 20, 2008 at 10:36 PM
I admire your ability to talk to total strangers the way you do..
Posted by:Hadassah Intisar | January 21, 2008 at 03:15 AM
Your blog is wonderful, Maryam. We all live in Turkey vicariously through you. You have your feet in so many cultures. This entry was particularly poignant. You have a knack for balancing art and life. Thank you.
Posted by:Dorian Fletcher | January 21, 2008 at 03:49 AM
You definitely know how 2 make use of time. C'est la,2 great conversations.And, I'm more curious of Bishkek.:)
Posted by:lyna wan | January 21, 2008 at 06:24 AM
I bet it made them feel good talking with you.
Posted by:hel | January 21, 2008 at 07:36 AM
Talking to strangers - a bit like face to face blogging.
Posted by:Barbara | January 21, 2008 at 07:55 AM
I do this too, start conversations with strangers. And I have strangers do the same thing with me. I've heard some interesting stories that way, stories that stay with me.
Posted by:Linda | January 21, 2008 at 08:07 AM
It's always so amazing to see who you meet along your journey. It's hard not to wonder what happened... will he get a card from home... will they get their baby home safely? I used to be scared to death to talk to strangers until I realized just how much I was missing out on! Thanks for sharing!
Posted by:Travelingmama | January 21, 2008 at 02:43 PM
I was right there with you, hanging on their every word. Beautiful writing, I am transported. Safe travels, dearest blogging girl.
Posted by:Tay | January 21, 2008 at 04:46 PM
I just love your writing so much, dear.
Posted by:Design for Mankind | January 21, 2008 at 05:15 PM
I've just discovered your blog via allthebest and am enthralled with the lovely images of Marrakesh. I especially love the berber tent and the stunning textiles that you've posted.
Posted by:Kate Cavendish | January 21, 2008 at 05:44 PM
What a sweet story, wonderful connections are made when we connect with strangers! I've learned that lesson through blogging. Strangers have become my best friends!
Just catching up, dear Maryam, on your wonderful posts. Always a treat for me to read.
xo
Melissa
Posted by:melissa @ the inspired room | January 21, 2008 at 05:51 PM
You got me. Tears tears.... Oh Maryam...
Posted by:A Fanciful Twist | January 21, 2008 at 06:27 PM
You are so like me. I can't stand in a queue without talking to the people in front and behind me.
Posted by:Di Overton | January 21, 2008 at 07:11 PM
Your stories are well told. My son is just back from Afghanistan (flies fighter jets in USAF) and I am so thankful he is home (well ... in England). I can not imagine his being away as long as the young man you spoke with ... that is so sad.
Posted by:Becca | January 21, 2008 at 08:47 PM
I like your unique way of telling stories...
Be safe!
xo
Posted by:Alex | January 21, 2008 at 09:05 PM
Meaningful encounters and such interesting lives. I can't imagine being that soldier and seeing his children for 6 months in so many years. So sad. I wish him well. I wonder what would happen if the media focused their attention on the US government's unfair demands on soldiers like this man. I wonder if and how the public would respond?
And what a happy encounter with the couple adopting the baby girl. I wish them well, too.
Posted by:susanna | January 22, 2008 at 02:43 AM
The blogging girls sounds a bit like me on the immigration line... this place she's visiting sounds like an old trunk filled with hidden gems, can't wait to hear more about Kyrgyzstan!
Posted by:Adla | January 23, 2008 at 09:24 AM
Such touching stories. I hope your kindness spreads like a fuzzy blanket of warmth across Central Asia.
Posted by:Lalla Lydia | January 24, 2008 at 06:31 PM