My Marrakesh

Marrakesh: a tale of Cafe Clock and The Last Storytellers

I grew up with a father who loved libraries.  We used to spend our Sunday afternoons in one nearby no matter where we lived.  I liked those libraries best which paid special attention to the children, with chairs, tables and shelves just the right size.  And, of course, I loved the books with their glossy plastic coated covers.  I took pleasure walking down the aisles, my hand brushing one spine after another, as if they were piano keys. But as much as I enjoyed reading the books myself, infinitely more thrilling was being read to.   My heart tipped open to those kind volunteers who would hold the books aloft and really tell us the stories -- their voices taking on dastardly characters with ease or haughty British accents when required.   I would sit in a chair just my size and be swept away.

When did that all stop?  Why?

I remember when I first went to the famed Jemma El Fnaa Square in Marrakesh.  It was there that I spied a huddle of Moroccans, hushed, just listening.  I peeked through their shoulders and saw an older man speaking in Arabic, his hands gesticulating, his eyes vivid.  What’s he saying? I whisper asked to a man next to me.  Is he selling something? I queried.  No, my neighbor responded.  He’s telling a story. 

Sadly, those Moroccan story tellers seem to be fewer and fewer -- dying one by one, and trumped by the internet, video games and texting. 

Café Clock opened today in Marrakesh, a sister to the well known Café Clock in Fez. There’s food of the simple and very good variety.  But more than that, there are master Moroccan storytellers.  And along with the storytellers are their newly trained young apprentices, some of them women, who will tell these Moroccan stories to you, yes, in English.  Every Thursday from 5-7 in the evening.

Honestly, it’s all too wonderful. 

Cafe Clock

224 Derb Chtouka

Kasbah, Marrakesh

+212 (0)6 55210172

PS If you can’t make it to Marrakesh {and even if you can}, purchase The Last Storytellers, by BBC journalist Richard Hamilton.  Richard is a passionate collector of the storytellers' stories.  Read his book to yourself.  And then read it aloud to someone you love.

Marrakech: and a tale of the Marrakech Biennale

Dear friends,

The Fifth Edition of the Marrakech Biennale starts tomorrow! 

This is one of my very favorite events!  The mission of the Biennale is to build bridges between cultures through the arts. This is expressed through visual arts, cinema and video, literature, and performing arts.  I'm always eager to see what Vanessa Branson and her team have cooked up.  {This is the same Branson family genius that has brought so many amazing things to the world -- ie the bar is always set very high.}

Here I am with Vanessa in Marrakech.

This edition of the Biennale includes over 350 contributors spread over 8 venues, including the Badii Palace, the Royal Theater, and the Jemma el Fnaa square.  The Biennale runs through March 31.  So if you are planning to be in Marrakech any time in the next month, make sure to make it a part of your agenda. 

Find out more about the Biennale right here, including the theme, the venues, & the program schedule.  If you can't make it this year........start planning for 2016:-)

Love your friend in a Marrakech olive grove,

Maryam 

Marrakesh: and a tale of a once revolutionary Valentine

You might think you know me but here’s the thing…..I used to be a revolutionary.  

I consorted with campus radicals.   I built shantytowns in protest.  I stood in silent fury at candle light vigils.  I even went to Guatemala to attend the 500 year anniversary of resistance to Columbus. 

I decried the system, I protested organized religion, I mocked state-sponsored traditional values.

And then I met, Chris. 

Chris wasn’t a revolutionary.  Quite to the contrary.  On our second date, I accused him of being a Republican because of his attitude towards medication costs for the poor.  

I didn’t believe in marriage then.  I thought it was a set of societal shackles that encumbered rather than protected.  Chris disagreed.  He was Catholic.  And he wanted to marry me.  (I’m not sure why he wanted to go on a third date, much less marry me.) That was his line in the sand.  And so eventually….I married him.  And it was a happy day. 

15 years later, I am still married. 

Here’s the thing, marriage is tricky and I think that maybe I’m not an easy woman to be married to.  But somehow….he still stands by me. 

And so on this Hallmark sort of day, I pay a little tribute to my life partner, Chris.  

And to you, friends, wherever you may be…….Happy Valentine’s day.  May there always be love in your heart whether you are married, single or something else………...

Image by Photographer Christine Johnson

Cairo: and a tale of jewelry

I was already late for my plane to Cairo, when she turned her head from the monitor and said, We'll need to look in your bag.

 I was impatient as I opened it but she ignored my scowling.  She lifted the large zippered mesh pouch  out of my bag.  Jewelry?  she asked.  Yes, I replied.  She smiled at me then and said, You're all set.

And I sort of was. 

 Rings from Bouvier.

Bronze fish ring bought in Cairo.

Earring from Bouvier.

Earrings from Azza Fahmy.

Ring from Azza Fahmy.

Bracelets from Bouvier.

Woven silver bracelet from Orijyn

 

 

Necklace from Mallory May (I covet the gold version, too.)

Vintage Moroccan earrings bought in the souks.

PS Which one is your favorite?

PPS It's gotten so confusing in the blog world hasn't it? But if you're wondering, no, I don't make a penny if you click on these links. These are all pieces that I genuinely love and wear.